How to Maintain Your Radon Mitigation System

1. Suction pipes:

• • - Collect radon from beneath foundation
• • - Usually PVC pipe, 3-4 inches (75-100mm) diameter
• • - Run from below foundation to above roof
• • - May be visible or concealed in walls

2. Fan (active systems only):

• • - Creates suction to draw radon from soil
• • - Usually located in attic, garage, or exterior
• • - Runs continuously (24/7)
• • - Typical lifespan: 5-10 years

3. Vent above roofline:

• • - Exhausts radon safely to outdoor air
• • - Must be 10 feet (3m) above ground
• • - Must be away from windows and openings
• • - Includes rain cap or screen

4. Warning device:

• • - Alerts you if system stops working
• • - Types: manometer (liquid gauge), alarm, light indicator
• • - Mounted where easily visible
• • - Requires no power (for manometer type)

5. Sealing:

• • - Cracks and openings sealed
• • - Sump pump covers
• • - Entry point seals
• • - May deteriorate over time

Maintenance differences:

• •Less to maintain (no fan)
• •No electrical components
• •Still need periodic retesting
• •May need upgrading to active system if levels increase

Activation option:

• •Passive systems can be upgraded with fan if needed
• •Less expensive than new system installation
• •Recommended if retesting shows elevated levels

If you have a manometer (U-tube with colored liquid):

• •Look at the liquid level in the tube
• •Should show difference between the two sides
• •Indicates suction is present
• •If levels are equal: System may not be working

What it should look like:

• •One side higher than the other
• •Colored liquid visible in tube
• •Difference might be 1-3 inches (2.5-7.5cm)
• •Consistent from month to month

If you have an alarm or light indicator:

• •Should be "normal" (green light, no alarm sound)
• •If alarm sounds or light changes: System problem
• •Test alarm function per manufacturer instructions

2. Listen for fan operation:

• •Go to where fan is located (attic, garage, exterior)
• •Should hear gentle humming or vibration
• •Consistent sound indicates normal operation
• •Unusual noises may indicate bearing wear

What normal sounds like:

• •Steady, low hum
• •Slight vibration if touching pipe
• •No rattling, grinding, or loud noise
• •No on/off cycling (should run continuously)

3. Check system labels:

• •Ensure warning labels are still visible and legible
• •Replace if faded or missing
• •Prevents accidental system modifications

4. Visual inspection:

• •Look at visible pipes for obvious damage
• •Check for disconnections or leaks
• •Verify nothing blocking vents
• •Note any changes from previous month

Roof vent:

• •Check for debris accumulation
• •Remove leaves, nests, or obstructions
• •Verify rain cap is secure
• •Look for physical damage

Exterior fan housing (if applicable):

• •Check for weather damage
• •Ensure mounting is secure
• •Look for signs of water intrusion
• •Verify housing isn't cracked

2. Check pipe connections:

• •Look at visible joints and connections
• •Should be secure and sealed
• •No gaps or separations
• •No air leaks (you might feel air if broken)

3. Inspect sealing:

• •Check visible cracks that were sealed
• •Look for new cracks that need sealing
• •Examine sump pump cover (if present)
• •Verify drain traps have water in them

4. Document observations:

• •Take photos of warning device reading
• •Note any changes or concerns
• •Helps track system performance over time
• •Useful for professional inspections

1. Professional system inspection (recommended):

• •Hire qualified radon contractor
• •Verify system operates correctly
• •Check fan motor bearings
• •Inspect entire system
• •Typical cost: $100-200

Fan inspection:

• •Look for signs of wear or corrosion
• •Listen for bearing noise (clicking, grinding)
• •Check electrical connections (if qualified)
• •Verify proper mounting

Pipe system:

• •Inspect all accessible sections
• •Look for cracks or damage
• •Check that pipes are properly supported
• •Verify no disconnections

Sealing integrity:

• •Inspect all previously sealed areas
• •Reseal if cracks have reopened
• •Check for new cracks or openings
• •Verify sump cover still sealed

Electrical:

• •Check fan electrical connection
• •Verify dedicated circuit (if required)
• •Look for frayed wires or damage
• •Ensure proper grounding

Documentation:

• •Review manometer readings over past year
• •Compare to installation baseline
• •Note any trends or changes
• •Update maintenance log

Every 2 years (minimum):

• •Conduct radon test even if system appears to work
• •Verifies continued effectiveness
• •Identifies if levels have changed
• •Industry standard recommendation

Retest immediately if:

• •System stops working (fan failure, power loss)
• •Warning device indicates problem
• •Physical damage to system
• •Major repairs or modifications made

Retest within months if:

• •Major home renovations
• •Structural changes to foundation
• •HVAC system replaced or modified
• •New cracks in foundation

Why retesting matters:

• •System effectiveness can change over time
• •New radon entry points may develop
• •Original radon source may increase
• •Only way to know you're still protected

Testing procedure:

• •Same as initial testing
• •Follow closed-building conditions
• •Test lowest lived-in level
• •Use certified test kit or professional

If levels remain low (<100 Bq/m³ / 2.7 pCi/L):

• •✓ System is working effectively
• •✓ Continue normal maintenance
• •✓ Retest again in 2 years

If levels are elevated but below original levels:

• •System is working but efficiency reduced
• •May need adjustment or upgrade
• •Contact qualified contractor
• •May need additional suction points or stronger fan

If levels return to original pre-mitigation levels:

• •System has likely failed
• •Check warning device
• •Verify fan is running
• •Check for obvious disconnections
• •Call contractor immediately

If levels are higher than ever:

• •System may have failed
• •New radon source may have developed
• •Requires immediate professional assessment
• •May indicate serious system problem

What to expect:

• •Runs continuously (24 hours/day, 365 days/year)
• •Never turns off (unless power failure)
• •Steady, consistent operation
• •Minimal noise (gentle hum)

Power consumption:

• •Typical: 50-200 watts
• •Similar to light bulb
• •Annual electricity cost: $50-200 depending on rates
• •Much less than most appliances

Operating hours:

• •~8,760 hours per year (24/7)
• •~43,800 hours in 5 years
• •~87,600 hours in 10 years
• •Impressive for any motor

Unusual noises:

• •Rattling: Bearings may be wearing
• •Grinding: Immediate attention needed
• •Intermittent sound: Electrical issue possible
• •Squealing: Belt or bearing problem

Warning device activation:

• •Manometer shows no suction
• •Alarm sounds
• •Indicator light changes
• •Pressure reading drops to zero

Visible issues:

• •Fan not spinning (if you can see it)
• •Excessive vibration
• •Burning smell (turn off immediately)
• •Visible damage to housing

Performance changes:

• •Radon levels increase on retest
• •Airflow seems reduced
• •System cycles on and off (should be constant)

If any of these occur:

• •Note the symptoms
• •Check circuit breaker
• •Contact mitigation contractor
• •Don't wait - problems worsen over time

Expected lifespan:

• •Typical: 5-10 years
• •Varies by fan quality and operating conditions
• •Some last longer, some fail sooner
• •Manufacturer warranties usually 3-5 years

When replacement is needed:

• •Fan motor fails completely
• •Bearings worn out
• •Electrical components fail
• •Physical damage
• •Or simply reaches end of service life

Replacement cost:

• •Fan unit: $150-400
• •Labor: $200-500
• •Total: $350-900 typical
• •Less than original system installation
• •Some homeowners insurance may cover

Replacement process:

• •Don't wait until complete failure
• •Schedule when first signs of wear appear
• •Takes 1-2 hours for professional
• •Minimal disruption
• •System back online same day

Choosing replacement fan:

• •Get same or equivalent size/capacity
• •Consider energy-efficient models
• •Verify compatibility with existing system
• •May upgrade to quieter model

DIY replacement:

• •Possible if you're qualified
• •Requires electrical knowledge
• •Must match fan capacity
• •Could void warranties
• •Professional installation recommended

1. Fan not running

• • - Check circuit breaker
• • - Verify power to fan
• • - Listen for fan operation
• • - May have tripped breaker

2. Leak in system

• • - Pipe disconnected
• • - Crack in pipe
• • - Seal has failed
• • - Check accessible pipe sections

3. Warning device malfunction

• • - Tube may have leak
• • - Liquid may have evaporated
• • - Connections may be loose
• • - Device itself may be faulty

What to do:

• •Check easiest things first (breaker, connections)
• •Call contractor if not obvious
• •Don't assume it's the device - verify fan runs
• •Retest radon if system was off for >24 hours

1. System not operating

• • - Fan failure
• • - Power loss
• • - Pipe disconnection

2. System compromised

• • - New foundation cracks
• • - Unsealed renovation work
• • - Drain trap dried out
• • - Sump cover removed

3. System inadequate

• • - Original installation insufficient
• • - New radon source developed
• • - Home modifications changed airflow
• • - Needs additional suction points

What to do:

• •Verify system runs (check warning device and fan)
• •Visual inspection for obvious problems
• •Call contractor for professional assessment
• •May need system upgrade or expansion

Rattling noise:

• •Loose mounting: Tighten bolts
• •Worn bearings: Plan for replacement soon
• •Debris in fan: Turn off, inspect, clean

Constant humming (louder than normal):

• •May be normal but getting louder as fan ages
• •Could indicate electrical issue
• •Have contractor inspect if significantly changed

Grinding or clicking:

• •Bearings failing: Needs replacement
• •Don't wait - will fail completely
• •Schedule replacement before total failure

Squealing:

• •Belt-driven fans: Belt needs adjustment/replacement
• •Direct-drive fans: Bearing problem

Intermittent operation:

• •Electrical issue (serious)
• •Turn off at breaker
• •Call contractor immediately
• •Potential fire hazard

When power is restored:

• •Verify system restarted automatically
• •Check warning device shows suction
• •Listen for fan operation
• •If system doesn't restart, check breaker

Extended outages:

• •Radon builds up during outage
• •May take 24-48 hours for levels to drop after power restored
• •Consider temporary ventilation
• •Retest if outage was >1 week

Any major structural work:

• •Retest within 30 days after completion
• •Finishing basement
• •Adding room additions
• •Foundation work
• •Major HVAC changes

Why renovations affect radon:

• •New entry points created
• •Air pressure patterns change
• •System may need adjustment
• •New cracks may develop

System modifications:

• •Notify contractor before major renovations
• •May need to temporarily relocate pipes
• •System may need expansion
• •Don't let contractors disconnect or modify system without consulting radon professional

Winter:

• •Higher indoor-outdoor pressure difference
• •System may work harder
• •Check outdoor components for ice/snow
• •Verify vents not blocked by snow

Summer:

• •Lower pressure difference
• •System may seem quieter
• •Good time for non-emergency maintenance
• •Retesting shows different conditions

Spring/Fall:

• •Good times for professional inspection
• •Moderate weather for outdoor work
• •Plan fan replacement during these seasons
• •Schedule annual maintenance